Natural Hair Texture: A Denver Colourist’s Guide to Curls, Waves, and Coils

Natural Hair Texture: A Denver Colourist’s Guide to Curls, Waves, and Coils

Natural texture is the most-requested conversation in the Denver salon chair that almost nobody actually gets the answer to. Women walk in with wavy or curly hair they have been blow-drying straight for two decades, say some version of “I do not really know what my natural texture is, but I want to figure it out,” and then leave with the same straight blowout they came in with because it is easier. This article is for people who want to stop doing that.

We work with every texture at Fluff Colour Salon, from completely straight to type 4 coils, and a large portion of our work is helping clients who have been fighting their hair finally work with it. The process is not complicated, but it does require a few months of patience and a willingness to unlearn the styling defaults that have been working against you.

Most adults do not know what their actual hair texture is, because they have been straightening, blowing out, or brushing it dry for so long that the natural pattern is suppressed. Three months of working with the texture instead of against it is usually what it takes to see what you actually have.

The four texture categories and how to identify yours

The Andre Walker texture system (types 1 through 4, with subcategories A, B, and C) is the most widely used framework. It is not perfect but it is useful as a common vocabulary.

Type 1 (straight). No curl or wave. 1A is fine and straight; 1C is thicker and coarser but still straight.

Type 2 (wavy). S-shaped waves. 2A is loose waves that show up after air-drying. 2B is more defined and tends to frizz at the crown. 2C is close to ringlet curls with obvious S-pattern.

Type 3 (curly). Spiral curls that form defined ringlets. 3A is loose bouncy curls the size of sidewalk chalk. 3B is springy corkscrew curls the size of a Sharpie. 3C is tight corkscrew curls the size of a pencil.

Type 4 (coily). Tightly coiled hair with an even tighter curl pattern than type 3. 4A is S-shaped coils. 4B is Z-shaped angular coils. 4C has the tightest coils with less visible curl definition.

To identify your own texture, wash your hair with a gentle cleanser, apply a small amount of leave-in conditioner, let it air-dry without touching it, and look at the pattern that forms naturally. Do not brush. Do not scrunch aggressively. Just look. That is your actual texture. Most people find they are slightly curlier than they thought.

Porosity matters as much as curl pattern

Porosity is how well your hair absorbs and retains moisture. It is independent of texture, and it determines what products and routines will work for you.

Low porosity hair has a tight, closed cuticle that resists water absorption. It feels like water sits on top rather than soaking in. Low-porosity hair loves light, water-based products and heat (a warm towel turban during a mask helps). It does not love heavy oils, which sit on the surface.

High porosity hair absorbs water readily but also loses it quickly. It is often the result of heat damage or chemical processing. High-porosity hair wants richer products, leave-in conditioners, oils, and sealants to hold moisture in.

The float test: drop a clean strand of hair in a glass of water. If it floats, you are low porosity. If it sinks slowly, you are medium. If it sinks fast, you are high. The water will tell you.

The four habits that ruin natural texture

Brushing dry

Dry brushing shatters curl clumps and creates frizz. Detangle wet, with conditioner in, using a wide-tooth comb or fingers. Never dry.

Towel-drying roughly

Cotton terrycloth roughs up the cuticle. Use a microfibre towel or cotton T-shirt. Squeeze and plop, do not rub.

High heat daily

Daily 450-degree styling permanently weakens curl memory. Cap daily heat at 350, take two days a week heat-free, and air-dry when you can.

Wrong products

Heavy creams on low-porosity hair, or light sprays on high-porosity hair, both fail. Match the product weight to your porosity.

The curly-girl method, in short

The curly-girl method (CGM) is a set of habits popularised by Lorraine Massey’s book Curly Girl: The Handbook. The shortened version: no sulfates, no silicones, no drying alcohols, no heat, no terrycloth towels, and no brushing. Instead: gentle cleansing or co-washing (conditioner-only washing), styling on soaking-wet hair, diffusing or air-drying, and sleeping on silk or satin.

CGM works. You do not have to follow it religiously for it to work; even adopting three or four of the principles will noticeably improve most wavy-to-curly hair within a month. The single biggest principle is styling on wet hair. Curls set their pattern as they dry, and if your hair is already partially dry when product goes on, the pattern has already been lost.

Cutting curly hair: why it is different

Curly hair needs to be cut in its natural state, dry and styled, not wet and combed straight. Wet curls hang about 20 to 30 percent longer than dry curls. A stylist cutting curly hair wet will cut a length that looks reasonable wet and then watches it spring up into a shape that is too short once it dries. Dry-cutting eliminates that surprise.

If your stylist has never cut curly hair dry and does not understand the difference, find a stylist who has. The DevaCurl certification, the Ouidad cut, and the Rezo cut are all systems that specifically address curly-hair cutting. We cut dry for curly and coily textures at Fluff, and the difference in how the finished cut looks and holds is significant.

Colouring natural texture without destroying the pattern

Lightening curly hair is doable, but it requires a gentler approach than the same service on straight hair. Curly hair tends to be more porous, so it lifts faster and processes hotter than straight hair of the same starting level. A colourist who is not used to curly textures will over-lift and leave the hair feeling straw-like, which flattens the curl pattern for months.

Balayage on curly hair works beautifully if it is painted on dry, curl-by-curl, rather than saturated across sections. Colour applied to individual curl clusters leaves the cuticle less stressed and keeps the pattern intact. Gloss services on curly hair add shine without heavy lift and are genuinely one of the best-value services for curly clients.

Denver’s dry air and natural texture

Low humidity is the natural-texture climate. In a humid environment, curls are well-fed by moisture in the air and require less product. In Denver, moisture has to come from what you apply. Most wavy and curly clients who move here from humid climates watch their curls tighten up and look “drier” within weeks. The solution is not more brushing or straightening. The solution is adding a humectant leave-in (glycerin-containing products do well in moderate humidity, less so in extreme dryness), a sealant over top (a light oil like argan or grapeseed), and sleeping in a silk bonnet or on a satin pillowcase to preserve the pattern overnight.

Frequently asked questions about natural hair texture

How long does it take to restore my natural curl pattern after years of straightening?

If you have no heat damage, the pattern will return within two to three wash cycles of stopping the straightening. If heat damage is present (curls that will not re-form even when wet), the damaged hair has to grow out and be cut off. That can take six months to two years depending on length and the rate of cuts.

Can I go completely sulfate-free if I have fine curly hair?

Yes, but include a monthly low-sulfate or gentle clarifying wash to prevent buildup. Fine curly hair is the texture most likely to get weighed down by product residue, which can flatten the pattern. A once-a-month reset works well.

What is “second-day hair” and how do I get it?

Second-day hair is a curly-hair refresh where you do not rewash between wears. To keep the pattern: sleep on silk or in a pineapple (a loose high ponytail), spritz with water or a refresher spray in the morning, scrunch in a small amount of leave-in, and go. Washing every day dries curls out faster than using a good refresh routine.

Do I need a “curly specialist” to cut my hair?

Yes, especially for type 3 and type 4 textures. A stylist who cuts curly hair daily will produce a dramatically better result than a generalist who cuts curly occasionally. At Fluff we have curly-trained stylists on the schedule; mention it when you book so we can match you to the right colourist.

Book a curl or texture consultation

Come in with your hair in its natural state — unstyled, unbrushed, no heat. We will read the pattern and porosity in person and build you a routine and a cut that work with your texture, not against it.

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